Brand to watch – Marine Serre
The young designer lighting up Paris Fashion Week
Marine Serre is on everybody’s mind and Paris Fashion Week has barely begun! After graduating from La Cambre in brussels, she worked at Alexander McQueen, Maison Margiela, Dior and Balenciaga. Serre won the 2017 LVMH Prize for young fashion designers, which is decided by a jury including the designers Nicolas Ghesquière, Karl Lagerfeld and Marc Jacobs. Based in Paris, the young designer has just presented her third collection, Autumn/Winter 2018.
Her new collection had less of the historical references compared to the previous ones. There were still her signature crescent moon prints, but this time with a kind of tough glamour – denim jackets molded after the model of corsets; utility jackets with bottle holders, lipstick caddies and phone pockets to “replace the classic handbag”. It is a rougher futuristic mystique : a new-functionalist “FutureWear”. Serre also got inspired by 19th century traditional Arabic dresses. For her long dresses, she sliced found Arabic fabrics and patchworked them with modern fabrics, giving the overall look a contemporary feel. She has a keen eye for color, and applied that to the way she styled the collection. For instance, a well-cut camel coat is worn over a lime green jersey bodysuit, and the jacket’s sleeves are lined in an orange fabric that pops as the wearer moves.
The collection is a clash of references, tensions and evolution where upcycled used garments are revived into fresh pieces. Serre’s commitment to “upcycling” and working more sustainably is shown in vintage scarves or shirts found, washed and then combined to make the show closing dresses. Marine sticks to her hybrid, thickly-referenced approach : absorbing and combining codes from radically different worlds while still choosing to ignore the boundaries between ready-to-wear, couture, tailoring and sportswear.
You can shop the Spring/Summer 2018 collection here.
Text: Margaux Lombard, March 1st 2018